Begrudgingly I'm having to let go of my Chanel jacket. I have adored making this. Truth be told I love hand work: it's peaceful, accomplishing and probably reminds me of a simpler time. I also like the fact that if the world went to hell in a handbasket, I actually could make up a dress totally by hand - it would take foreeeeever, but I could do it.
Isn't this just the cat's meow? And for the long, thin, bird-neck person I am, that collar is fabulous. It's more of a classic style, than something closely fitted like most of today's jackets are, simply because I don't want this to be dated.
I put a little video on the Go Chanel or Go Home blog....but here are some details.
First, I loved the fit and make-up of this jacket. BWOF 4/2004 #112 - it's so old the archives don't have it up any more...
Needless to say, the hidden closure was altered to account for trim and button closure. Additionally, the welt pockets were replaced with patch pockets the more traditional Chanel jacket look.
As far as assemblage, this is fairly common sense...use an excellent bouclé, then I used my "when you don't know what to use for interfacing use silk organza" interfacing here:

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Then laid the lining piece on top and pinned these pieces together on the seam line - which for my pattern pieces 1½" seam allowances. I had some problems with this...mentioned later.
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A long view of the sleeve after quilting. You can use a variety of quilting patterns, but I selected this one, probably because of the traditional quilting pattern. Also to really test my new walking foot, which came through the test with flying colors.

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This shows the pattern I used for quilting that when pressed, turned out beautifully and just how excellently the walking foot worked, cause all I did was guide the piece up and down, and that's all.
The next major change I made in the pattern was the collar. This is a strong collar something that works very well for me - these types of collars are and have always been my personal preference. This is an old technique, but something that makes a beautiful detail. Trapunto stitching is a stitching usually in even increments in rows or scaled outlines of a design. Here's one example of straight-stitch trapunto, and here's another of a design outline.
In the case of this collar, I just outlined the collar, row after row, till I met the neckline. This did several things. Keeping the lines was the same quilting them of the jacket, and this also make the collar a lot more stable. Bouclé, by it's nature is very flimsy, and if it is not backed, then some sort of technique or interfacing or stabilizing insert needs to be made. There is also the fact that bouclé is very drapey (I know it's not a word, but it's sooo descriptive here), and the look I wanted here was a stand up collar that would last through the test of time.
This was my original model
This is the finished look. This shows the various changes in design made during the process of assembling the jacket. The extended rounded shoulders of the model are pretty, but they are dated to me, so I elected a traditional set-in sleeve look. I'm cold-natured, and prefer long sleeves, so the 3/4 sleeve length on the model wasn't for me. I do like the idea of buttoning only to the waist or thereabouts, and incorporated this into the design. The length is about the same, I probably lowered this a tad in front, which is another design mechanism I'm fond of - it actually works to de-accentuate the hips!
The bottom line: if you've never made a Chanel type jacket, it's well worth the effort. Not only will you end up with a beautiful addition to your wardrobe, you will gain an unique look into one of the world's finest techniques. After making up this jacket, I am in awe of not only the technique, but the creation of the technique. The detail and work involved is fabulous, but the idea that someone went to all the trouble of doing all the problem-solving in working out all the bugs in the technique of making up this jacket is more awe-inspiring.
It's a little like playing Beethoven and being swept up in his emotionalism of the piece, or copying a Monet to understand the technique of capturing light. I feel as though I've had a little personal time with Coco, and her creativity!