Claire Kennedy Design

Surviving the slings and arrows

This morning on Sewing on the Side, made an interesting post about sewing through the stress.  It reminded me how many times in my life sewing has saved me from the ravages of stress - through decades of busts and booms, life changing events and the general ups and downs of life - through all of it sewing has been there and saved me.  I attribute a lot of this to my clients, but it's the sewing I do for them that really saves me.

It's sort of hard to describe this process as you are either in the love it or leave it camps of sewing. Obviously I'm from the former. 

 

But sewing has been more than just "something to do".  It has been a life and mind-saver.  Without it I would definitely be in the nut house.  There's a peace and calm that comes over me when I sit down in my studio and start to create.  I've often felt that when I pass through the threshold of my studio, I'm no longer the regular Claire, I'm the super-creative Claire - and the Claire of my dreams - in my studio, that is!  The best proof of this is when I start my day at around 8 or 9-ish and look up a few minutes later and it's 10:30, then a few minutes later and it's 5:30 and wonder "What happened to lunch?!!!....where did mid-afternoon slump go?!!!....where did the whole day go?!!!"

I'm told by experts in this sort of thing, that this is "being in the zone" - whether it's playing football, an artist creating a sculpture, a pianist playing his/her fav Debussy (I can relate to this as I'm working on Arabesque right now!).

Reading about the art and creative process, sewing is also the manifestation end of the creative process that so many visual, performing and dramatic artists may not understand and therefore can't/won't accomplish.  Creating in the mind is the first step, but the creation must be completed or made real for it to be complete.  At least we sewists have that much ahead of other artists as it seems to be understood that you would make up something or it wouldn't really be complete - I know - it's a duh!  moment for us!

Sewing has also been empowering to me.  It has been so long since I have been a slave to even the most minute desires and decisions of designers, store buyers, store clerks, fashion magazine editors and the like, that I just don't even think in those terms.  I get an idea in my head, and poof, it's done...no more shopping, no more leafing through catalogs, no more surfing the net, no more delving on the price, it's just done and onto the next design.  I have grown to take this for granted, and have to remind myself that this is the world of most of my clients, and have to re-educate my brain periodically about shopping.

Don't get me wrong...my fav t-tops, stretch capris, and comfy active-wear is all purchased, but the mainstay of my wardrobe is designed by me.

But by far, sewing has been a peaceful and productive escape from some of the scariest times of my life, exactly when I needed it. Times that if I had not the talent, benefit and expertise of my craft, would have consumed me and defeated me.

I'm interested to hear the effects - good and bad - sewing has had on your life.  Is it something you turn to when things are scary and tough, or is it a way to escape to a more peaceful environs or is it an outlet for your creative juices?  How does sewing affect your life other than putting  beautiful garments on your back!

Claire

A new gadget

I have this friend who likes to make furniture....fine furniture!  And he uses all sorts of neat gadgets and tools to make his life easier in the making of this fine furniture! 

I find a lot of them are really interesting but of no use to me.

Do NOT put your finger in this thing or.....well....there's just no telling what will happen.  But this gadget is useful for him.  To be honest, I'm not sure how, so don't ask me to explain it.  But he extols the virtues of this thing constantly.  Each to his/her own.

One day, while was admiring his work, and I do admire all of this, he picked up this little thing at Home Depot (which is unfortunately just around the corner from his shop).

A digital fractional caliper.  (Sounds really technical)  This looked interesting, but it only got better.

Look at what this thing does!  On the bottom in measures the outside dimensions, and on the top it measures the inside dimensions. 

My minded flooded with the possibilities of the use of this around my own studio!  Above is just one.

I love this button and have used it on many garments - in my mind at least!  But the problem with these odd shaped jewels is making the correct sized button hole and for that matter even measuring it.

Not one to do things in an inexact manner, the whole idea of this caliper (that's what they call them in the shop world), made me oooo and aaaaah with delight.

So off to Home Depot to purchase my own little jewel.

The measurements can be in fractions,which is what I prefer, or inch decimals or metric decimals, with a measuring stick (excuse my inept and un-techy language there), thingie above in case you can't read the digital layout.

I'm not sure I would recommend this as a "must have" in everyone's studio, but this sort of thing does appeal to me as there are times when I glance at the ruler and think it's 3/8ths or 5/8ths or 3/8ths and then have to start counting...1/8th, 2/8th, 3/8th, etc.  This just prevents any misunderstanding between the ruler and me in the future.

And of course we all want better communication - it's just better for the relationship.

I can see this is the beginning of a long friendship already!

An old pet peeve

I like to check out the "best dressed" lists as this is usually a way to check out styles and trends. So I was checking out my tweets and there was a best dressed list, so who was I to pass up this opportunity.

Most of these are pretty predictable

And I'm not offended by the girls modeling....they're a little thin, but at least they look like they have some sort of physical development - muscles, and they aren't skin and bones....

but it didn't last for long....

And although I have warped these a little it's obvious to see that the person in the above photo looks like this month's Rice Cake Queen. 

This so infuriates me as I fight this everyday with my brides and debs and other clients. 

The first thing they do is apologize for their measurements...even my students in my class apologized. I really don't care...only reason I'm interested is to see how to alter the pattern and make the garment fit the client or the student. 

It's an old complaint - one that rears its head and so periodically I rail which will hopefully cause it will remain dormant till the next episode.

The first thing I say when my clients or students complain about their shape, is that they are where they are.  For one reason or another, this is where they are.  I really believe this - for one reason or another we are the size we are.  In my life, I have fluctuated between high and low and having the benefit of hindsight, now seemed fully logical why my weight was up or down (since I've never been blessed with a child, this precludes that weight gain!)

So although all these models here are very thin,there is a distinct difference between healthy and trim and unhealthy and unnatural.

All of these women are not only smart, they are self-starters, motivated, and they excel in their fields and all have normal figures.

What a joy to see a trend of designers dressing these women

The Tunic Class

As promised - here are pics from the class which was a huge success..

 

Each student had their own space and we all spread out to sew and have a lot of fun

With a fitting or two we were able to tweak each tunic so each student got to have personal fitting techniques

 

Most of all we all had a lot of fun and everyone (including me) was inspired to do some more sewing!!!

Going through some old stuff

I was going through some old books, when I found these.  Not sure what is going on with Lois these days as she looks as thought she's changing directions a little.  When I click on designandsew.com her home link, I get purse accessories which is what she seems to be doing.  For years I knew her as a pattern designer, and even more fun, a closure expert.  She had two books out: Opening and Closing: Closures and The Great Put On.  But these books seem to be out of print now, even though you can still get them used.

I love the new technique here and there, but I really love thinking outside the box every once in a while - now that has to be qualified that I don't like throwing out the baby with the bath water - IOW, I don't like throwing out style and fit for the sake of art, but I do believe you can have both.   So I'm always looking for new ideas in the basic fundamentals of design....like this...

All these pictures are extra large (right click and then view the pic) so you can see the detail. 

These books have page after page of ideas.....

Dang!!!  I want some more time.......

One of my favorite things she does in this book is slip a slit in a seam or where the piping might go....

Both these books are great idea books!

My Studio

OK - a lot of people having been wanting a tour of my studio - so while I'm in the middle of my teaching class and no time to sew - here's what it looks like.

First before you enter, you have to understand I'm a person driven by faith and so entering into my studio is a not only a place to create, but I think of it as a spiritual place too.  It's very weird to describe, but for years I felt as though there were two Claires:  one that lived outside my studio, and then the other Claire that worked, created and was artistic and incredibly talented inside my studio.  Sounds weird, but that's how I felt.

My studio was also a place that lost time....I would go in about 8 or 9 a.m. and then next time I looked up it was 4:30 p.m. and would wonder where the day went - why didn't I get another 3 or 4 hours?....where did the time go?  Yes, I got a lot done, but I want to do more - where had the time gone?  I understand from people who study these sorts of things, that this is good and it what's called getting into the artist's zone:  you're having so much fun that time flies - that sort of thing.

Anyway, to make sure my studio has just the right karma, I have a wonderful little card a client sent me:

Yep, St. Clare of Assisi is the patron saint of needle-workers & embroiderers!  How about that!!!  Now St. Clare advocated a life of poverty and abstinence, and I can not say I have that in common with her, but I do love needle-working.....

and love having it above the entrance to my studio.

So here's my little video of my studio.

Enjoy.




My Summer Classes

I'm really looking forward to this....

A set of classes at my local Bernina store.

What's so fun is that I have a wide variety of students and so there will be a wide variety of garments at the end

So I'm out of pocket for a couple of days, but....

Pictures forthcoming!

Have I told you about my favorite designer?

Oh, I have!  Well, here's some more on him....

This is just the start of this guy's creativity

Look at those clothes...and hiding in all those magical lines are darts and fitting mechanisms that even the most full-figured gal would love.

Actually the great criticism of Beene was that he designed for women who were toothpick thin...Nan Kempner, Pat Buckley, and the like, but I find them full of possibility.  I remember being in NYC once at Le Cirque (the old one not Cirque 2000), and in walk Pat & Nan to have lunch.  I thought I had died and gone to heaven as this was the one of high society's doyennes' fav haunts for lunch.  Of course they were meticulously dressed.  I miss that about today's fashion - being dressed up in a killer suit, or jacket and pants, all neat and collected, and of course fitted to the nines!

All those inserts and seams are just ripe for fitting and easy as pie to do.  And although the criticisms are right, that the designs were made up for painfully and unhealthily thin persons, they could easily be adapted for more normal shapes.

I don't like sewing for the skin and bones set, as they not only do not represent the more-normal figure, but they also don't represent a healthy figure - let's not talk about promoting a lifestyle and body shape that is completely impractical.  But that's another subject...back to Beene's designs - here is a lovely jacket with some unusual trim and a gorgeous ball gown that is still good today.  I think these are some late 90's or early 2000's fashions.

This jacket line was one of Beene's favorites, but his variations seem to really be more than variations - more like complete works of art that stand on their own.  His bolero idea was one of the most elegant features of his designs -  particularly in his later collections.

And as if his designs were fun enough, then he got into this color and pattern thing that was absolutely fabulous.

I will be found eyes glued to computer screen viewing this CD for a while....

An old Burda...7/2007 #111 Tie Top

I was going to do this before I left for a fun week in the sun, and then couldn't remember the pattern. 

But this pattern is for stretch fabrics (see no darts), and I had this great Laurel Burch black fabric that was just crying out to be this top.

But a few changes first...having worked with transition from knit to woven I knew I would need some fitting - so a few darts here.....

....and a few here....

and same thing for the back....

...and oops, looks like we need a little in the back....

and voila -

And the back....

Isn't that a cute tie in back.

This just begs for a pair of black cotton gauze-y type pants.

Hmmm and I'm teaching this week - who needs a lesson plan when you're a teacher! 

Yikes, that's a scary thought!

Sewing Machine Reviews

Beth made an interesting request on her blog about review of sewing machines.  This can be very helpful for newbies.  I remember first starting out and having to fight through a lot of machine isssues, that I came to believe were just because I was inexperienced, when it was really that the machine was of poor quality and really didn't work half the time.  Having a good machine that suited to your  needs is key...so here goes my reivew of my machines:

What brand and model do you have?

I have five machines (OK no funny comments...but I use all of them!!!)

• Bernina 1630 - my main squeeze.
• Bernina Artista 180 - Wow - the embroidery I can do!
• Bernina 930 - my backup and also teaching machine.
• Bernette Serger 203 - almost exclusively for finishing seams.
• Omni machine - sews in many directions.
  

How long have you had it?
Bernina 930- about 30 years
Bernina 1630 - for 15 years
Bernina Artista - about 10 years

How much does that machine cost (approximately)?
Bernina 930 - around $700
Bernina 1630 about $3,000
Bernina Artista - about $7,000

What types of things do you sew (i.e. quilting, clothing, handbags, home dec projects, etc.)?
Formal Wear:  Debutante, Wedding, After Five and Ball Gowns.

How much do you sew? How much wear and tear does the machine get?
Every day.

Do you like/love/hate your machine? Are you ambivalent? Passionate? Does she have a name?
I love all my machines, or I wouldn't have them.  The work under the most extreme conditions:  I abuse my machines I don't use them!  I would highly recommend Bernina, but honestly I have bought them for so long because of the great service and support that comes from my local Bernina Shop.

What features does your machine have that work well for you?
- The key to the "wow" features of the Berninas are the feet - the rolled hemmer works beautifully, the binder is fabulous, the blind stitch foot is versatile in many different stitches, sew-on button (with adjustable thread shanks), automatic buttonholer. 
- The second is the automatic tension - this is something that should come as an automatic on every machine!

Is there anything that drives you nuts about your machine?
The little blade on the side cutter slides away from the slot which means sometimes the threads don't get cut, which can be maddening when I slide the threads to cut them, and they don't cut, I'm pulling a lot of thread out of the machine.  But this is so minor that it's hardly worth mentioning.

Do you have a great story to share about your machine (i.e., Found it under the Christmas tree? Dropped it on the kitchen floor? Sewed your fingernail to your zipper?, Got it from your Great Grandma?, etc.!)? We want to hear it!
My first Bernina:  My mother, after I started taking serious courses in sewing, asked if I wanted a machine and I told her a Bernina (the 930 at the time), but that it was expensive.  When she found out the price, she agreed, never being a person who understood or supported artistic endeavors or people, and I am an artist with my machine.  So I reconciled myself that I would just have to sew on the Berninas in class.  On day my mother called and said that she and my aunt would buy me the machine.  Later I found out that my aunt really bought it - paid for most of it, but I never knew till after she died, but at least she got to see me build my wardrobe and use the daylights out of that machine.  And I'm sure she took great joy in that.  This machine I still have today and I use it for my classes and new students.

Would you recommend the machine to others? Why?
Absolutely - but part of it because of the wonderful local support and service I get through my local shop, but another is because the darned machine is built beautifully - it works.  If Bernina says it will do something, it's not something that has to be looked at just a certain way to work - it really works!

What factors do you think are important to consider when looking for a new machine?

• Must have automatic tension - too many new students are turned away and turned off by mess-ups with the tension and think it's them when in reality it's really the machine
• As hard as this may seem - you get what you pay for.  If you want to borrow a machine to see if you have an interest or aptitude for this art and skill, great:  then buy a good machine.
• For your first machine the basics like 1.) forward stitch (duh!), 2.) reverse stitch, 3.) zig zag, and maybe 4.) some (a very few) decorative stitches, is all you need to do some remarkably beautiful clothing.  As you become more expert, then you can expand into more expensive and elaborate machines. I'm a formal wear designer - so I design and these basic stitches are my mainstay in the execution of those designs.
  

Do you have a dream machine?
There is a professional embroidery machine at my local Bernina shop that is dreamy:  multi-thread/color, fast, detailed, hoops caps, any type of fabrics - it's really fabulous and would be too much fun to have.  I'm also an artist and see a lot of my designs in embroidery!!  Yum yum!

Gratitude is a necessity

What a surprise to receive this award....thank you Ann and how kind of you to think of me.

Attitude of Gratitude - The Rules of Accepting and Sharing this Award:

1. Put the logo on your blog or post
2. Nominate a few blogger's that show an attitude of gratitude
3. Link to your nominees within your post
4. Comment on their blogs to let them know they've received this award
5. Share the love and link to this post and the person who nominated you for the award.
6. Tell us how you've come to have an attitude of gratitude

So here's to it....the logo:

I know I'm supposed to pass this on, but I'm having a lot of problems whittling my list down to a manageable number....so many of my blogger friends help in so many ways which makes me very grateful for their contribution...some are on the fringe of my business...some are right down the same path, but they all add to my cache of knowledge which makes me just that much better at what I do.

I'm very grateful for having this God-gifted talent and many more besides.  Hopefully I can make enough use of it as to blossom and make this world just a little more beautiful.  I especially love doing this with "newbies."

But to be honest - I am very blessed;  sewing is a passion because I love it.  I love walking into my studio every morning, and would like to spend just a little more time there every day than I do - if only I didn't have to sleep!  But time away is good to recharge my creative batteries to make the flow for another day.  I feel so lucky to be able to dream up my designs and create them.  It is a regular occurrence to see my dream realized into physical actuality and this is what I hope to pass on to young sewists!

Some bloggers who I'd like to pass this award to are:

Kathleen - who's pithy remarks are full of advice and inspiration,

Lindsay T - who needs no introduction but keeps my normally unchecked NY Fabricoholic Attacks somewhat in check with her reports from the district (thank you so much!), and of course

gowachuss Ann who has the enviable position of being around great fabrics all day! 

Kirsten - who's helped me a lot with some trademark issues,

Jenny - a very creative gal.

Thank you Ann!

What's up

See - I'm sitting in my studio - minding my own business....

When the doorbell rings and I rush to see a package from Ann (Ooooooooo - I think I know what it is!!!)

Opening it up:

And there is nothing like opening up some fabric you've just ordered.....the gowachuss print (not my word but very descriptive!!!) begs to be a great pair of pants....while the black (looks boring here, but believe me it's a great cotton with a slight sheen which is perfect for a top for the pants).  Then there are the two linens on the side....both are iridescent-ish - or where the woof weave is one color and the warp weave is another so that the nap and shading on the fabric does some marvelous things....in addition - the fabric is one color up close and another color further away - love these sorts of things.   And they're linen, which means they will have rich wrinkles - I love linen!

And isn't it wonderful when life is fortuitous because, I had bought this pattern after a few comments on some blogs I follow had talked about the great style (I think so too).

But didn't have anything in my "immediate" inventory (so of course I had to get something - but what!)  Hadn't really put the iridescent linen and this pattern together, but have now!!  I'm really hot to try this jacket.

And another project has been burning a hole in my head to get out and get done.....

This is just a little mock-up of what I want to do....They should wrap, but I want them to wrap really more center front than just evening in back and front....this is hard to explain but this picture pretty much shows how I want them to look.  In addition, I want them to be fairly fitted on top, but balloon-y and full at the bottom, but not flappy big.  Confusing, I know - but what can I say.

I'm seriously thinking of using the Badgley Mischka pants as a base, I love the way they fit at top and balloon at the bottom.

Gee I wonder what else I can think up to do in the next couple of days?....why do I have to sleep anyway - it's such a waste of time!!!!

Pants Pattern Fitting Class

Having a pair of pants that fit is a dream come true.

Have you wanted a pair of pants that
    ●    Doesn’t bag when you stand, yet has room when you sit
    ●    hangs strait from the waist and hips and stomach and doesn’t “tilt” front or back
    ●    feels good, yet looks good

In ready-to-wear, this is a dream of a request. There is no way RTW can accomplish this, but we as sewists have this ultimate luxury.  Once you know how to fit and create a base pattern, you're home free.  Why?  Cause in one afternoon, you can cut and finish a pair of pants.  It's the fit that's the hard part.

In my November class at Bernina North, ((405) 681-2212 is the phone to call and make reservations), I will show you how to make and fit a pants pattern.  You will walk away from the class not only with a usable pattern but with variations on that pattern to make all sorts of interesting and fun pants type garments.

You will learn:
    ●    How to fit your pants
    ●    Make a pants pattern in muslin for yourself
    ●    Learn how to make pants from that muslin
    ●    Learn variations on your pants pattern


This class will show you how to fit your pants (and why if you want to know!), and you will leave with a pants pattern in muslin that will fit, but also with many variations such as side pocket on the angle from the waist, side seam pockets, welt pockets, front flap zipper, back centered zipper, boot legged, chimney or stove-pipe legs, tapered leg, pull-on tie or elastic waist, culottes, shorts, sportswear finishing techniques, dressy-pant finishing techniques.

Here's a little more techy info about the class:  click here.

Bring muslin (you can get it at Joann's on NW Expressway & 63rd - about 2 1/4 yds 60" wide), pattern (see below suggestions), scissors, measuring tape, I will provide a measuring chart, pins, zipper (preferably 9" - I really don't recommend 7" for pants), thread, machine and if you like some fabric that you would like ideas about details on how to take your pattern and make the pants in fabric.  (That didn't sound clear - so I'll try again!).  IOW, if you want some fabric ideas, I will be so happy to help you out on that too.

Supplies: measuring tape, pattern (a simple pants pattern - some suggestions are: Vogue 1003, Vogue 2532, Butterick 5222, Burda 8341, Burda 7579, Burda 7790, Burda 8332. Buy the pattern size according to the largest part of your hip, stomach or waist - whatever your shape is).  I recommend the Vogue 1003 the most.  It has no style, at the waist, and an excellent basic pattern to fit (we won't be having "off the hip" pants forever - I promise!), and then Burda 8332 next.  The other pants have more style in them, and we will be making alterations to make sure that the pants pattern fit at the waist.

Skill level: basic understanding of sewing: (sewing seams, you do not have to be an expert zipper installer).
Class is on November 4th, 5th, 6th, with an additional class if you want for an extra fee on the 7th.  The cost is $75.

If you have any questions - just email me (click here).  If that link doesn't work, there's a link on my "about" page on this blog

Answering some emails

Going through some of my more recent emails and responding to some of the comments.  First, I've enjoyed reading all of them - such a bright and insightful group!

In regard to shelves (or is that shelfs when it refers to one on one's body?)  Well, no matter - it's all the same. I wouldn't worry if you have one or you don't.....

... we all have figure flaws.  My favorite example of this is Princess Diana

Although this is a beautiful dress and Diana certainly looks beautiful in it, she was terribly waist-challenged, and had no business in a dress like this.  I can see the sketch though, and I'm sure the dress was a dream for Diana to wear, to try and find that waist.  But she had none.

But Diana had something else....

Diana had great legs and when she showed them she looked great.

The point is that even if you think you have a figure problem, don't despair - you can fit it and make it proportionally correct for your size, height and shape.   In addition we ALL (every last one of us) has an asset, and that is what we want to show off.  In the end this makes us look well groomed and well-dressed which is the whole point!

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The Fashion Show generated a lot of email about the appalling acceptance of or lack of filtering out of appropriately trained or skilled sewists in the group.  One comment suggested this is the reason for the plight of poor quality of ready-to-wear - because the designers have little or no idea about how to make up their designs (and therefore the construction involved), ready-to-wear can be scarily flimsy.  This doesn't include all ready-to-wear, but I will say that a lot I've altered is very much like opening  a Pandora's Box and I just want to get out of it as fast as I can!!!

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The beads inside the flowers on the debutante gown are actually for my muse - my niece.  She was really kind enough to let me do pretty much what I wanted for this dress:

 

This is an intricate design of silk embroidered ribbon, which I understand can be done by machine now, but I'm just not there....I can get so much better look with doing this by hand and it has a three-dimensional look to it that I love.  And when you're working in something all white, I'll take any sort of variety I can get...texture, 3-D, unusual darting, style, line - anything!!!!  I laid the basic design out with my Artista (a digital embroidery machine), then put it on a hoop and did the rest by hand.  The gallery is here.

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I've been lucky enough to have met quite a few famous creative people and some famous who weren't so creative.

 

And the one thing I've found is that those who are truly creative, are very generous with their ideas and their gift.  I never really understood this till I started looking closer at how I am with my clients...I shower them with ideas - well, OK not shower, they couldn't handle all that, but I'm generous.  And the reason is that I've got so many tooling around in my head that I don't care.  I can always come up with newer ideas and more ideas.  Ideas are not my problem - getting them out and getting them done is my problem - if I were to live for 1,000 years I don't think I would have the time to get them all done - thank heavens.  But for those who copy, they have one good idea and need to guard it like a miser or they will loose it and since they never came up with that design to start with, if someone found out their secret, they'd be toast.

But back to those truly creative people.  Sometimes, it's a bear to get past their personality, but Katy bar the door when you do.  I think this is a lot the case with Issac.  He demeanor is frankly very offensive to some and a little more than over the top - too dramatic.  But darn it, the guy has gobs of talent and is stinking creative - it's hard to just turn that down, just cause of some personal presentation affectations.

The other thing about Issac that I enjoy is that he gets it.  He's not all caught up in all this design for design sake stuff that a lot of designers are caught up in.  He actually understands the everyday person and what it's like for them to have fashion and how that should sing and that it can sing for all of us.

Issac does have his stamp on The Fashion Show, and I'm not trying to make excuses, but so far he has been right on - I love where he is going with these kids and he's not only gentle, but firm....he's not caddy, vindictive, mean, belittling or taking cheap shots, but keeps them right on point and to a point that is necessary in the design world.  It's just very interesting to listen to his suggestions and critiques of the contestants because he's not only interested in their designs, but they have to have a purpose and he is talking the bottom line - what is going to sell?...who are you designing for?...how is the client supposed to wear this to this or that affair?  Dang, these are questions that the editorial writers should be asking for all the fashion magazines...when is Issac going to be a fashion editor?  That's what we need.

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Most of all, thank you all for your great comments.  They all mean a lot!