BurdaStyle and all the others

Patterns have become an interesting topic, mostly because there's been a change going on for about 10 years or so.  When I was first learning how to sew, and even back when I was first introduced to sewing, Vogue Patterns was the standard by which all the other patterns were judged.  Nothing, domestic or international could compare.  As I began to hone my sewing skills, Vogue Patterns grew with me, from beginner, intermediate, advanced to couture.

I even made these, even though some of them were considered high tailoring.  But this is the sort of product that Vogue Patterns used to produce.  So no wonder no one could touch them.

But eventually sales waned, home sewing waned, even while I was learning some advanced tailoring and dressmaking techniques, sewing was becoming passe.  I think that's one of the things that was most appealing about it to me.  While all my friends were shop-a-holics and spending 3 to 4 times what I was, I was making that very wardrobe myself, and much better I thought, cause it was in the color, style, and fabric that I liked and wanted so much.

For a long time, there was a void, and although I had known about Burda and Anna Burda, and what a fine company it was, it lived under the shadow of "no seam allowances" in the pattern and the horrid nightmare stories of cutting it out, not quite matching and being always too small.  So there was a stand-off-ish-ness to Burda that followed. 

It certainly wasn't the design that scared people away...these looks were totally in fashion and completely savvy at the time.

It was the seam allowances and it was as if someone had put a curse on Burda - or at least that's how I felt.

Then I finally just got to the point where I would draw up what I needed.  This was mostly for my clients and there was hardly anything out there that was close to the pattern my clients generally wanted, so this is all I used.

Then for some reason, I decided to take the first Burda World of Fashion, and that was it.  The first couple of issues were a little weird, but what I noticed is that I would go back to those and use them again and again.  I'm still drawing from patterns in the late 90's - good classic style is timeless, and some of those patterns were and are timeless.

I kept thinking that Vogue, Butterick, McCalls would catch up.  And even would look at New Look and some other art house patterns (Dianne Ericson, Linda Lee, Lois Hinse), but as I begin to look closer and closer at the BWOF, I was astounded at how well they were made, how well they were cut, how well they fit, how easy they were to alter (lots of cutting lines means lots of places to fit), and basically what great look they were.

In an effort to find another BWOF out there, I've started taking Knipmode.  It's a bit more casual, not as many pattners, but certainly classic enough to last for a while.  And frankly with just one issue, it's not really fair to compare.  BurdaStyle (today's version of BWOF), is so far and above ahead of any other patterns, that it's going to be a hard act to follow.

In the February Knipmode

is this blouse, in another version (which I couldn't find immediately online) is the same line with a collar and without the ruffles, that looks interesting....

and this little gem...a new and interesting way to close a jacket, which I liked...

...then this jacket, which is hard to see, hard to photograph, and hard to see the lines with this picture, but take it from me, the lines look great and might be interesting to do.

 

But in the February issue of BurdaStyle, is this jacket:

This has gobs of style and I'm immediately taken to it.  That seam in the middle is there for fit, and my bet has a nice bust dart in there, which you have those waist darts fitting the waist.  I have the perfect fabric for this, as a matter of fact I was on the Burda site before the Feb. issue arrived and knew I wanted to do this up, and was wondering why my mailperson hadn't finished delivering all my mail, thankyouverymuch!  So I've been waiting for this pattern.

Then there's a compliment of sorts

Again - with the cut....and the seam in the middle looks like it doesn't go all the way to the side seam - it does, again probably with a bust dart in there, but if it's not, I can sure add one.

Again with the "cut", the "line" the design....all of the BurdaStyle patterns have all of that, where as I feel the Knipmode is a little tricky, and Vogue is so far down the list now, that I hardly look at them.  I received my current issue of Vogue Patterns and it just lays there.  I hardly open it.

For me the difference between Burda and Knipmode for now, is that BurdaStyle has way more design detailing and good line and cut than does any other pattern.  I'm going to give Knipmode a good shot, I have a subscription for a year, and if they don't do anything really fun and outstanding, then I won't renew (and considering it's almost twice as expensive as BurdaStyle, that will be a relief).  But if they are good, then they will be worth the money.

Lastly, and I can't believe I actually have to say this about commercial patterns, but some patterns these days are "off".  IOW, when you sew them up, correctly, as the pattern markings and directions say to do, they go together badly and there are a multitude of errors that may not even be undone or redone by a master, much less a newbie or even intermediate sewist. 

This irks the heck out of me, and that's about as nicely as I can put it, cause it steams me up so badly so quickly, it's like lighting a match under Mt. Kilauea, and I blow.  I think newbies and beyond have enough problems that they don't need any others by supposedly "professional" pattern companies (and this goes for poorly made sewing machines as well).  It's so rewarding to sew for yourself in so many ways, but one of the main ones is that sewing is a constant state of problem solving, and to look at the end and see, feel, wear and garner all sorts of compliments, is the whole purpose, not to stumble through professional directions from a professionally made pattern or sewing machine.

So I suppose my #1 reason why I like Burda is that it goes together well, and you will have a well-cut garment where the pieces actually fit together well. 

The #2 reason is because I may look at a pattern for the first couple of months, thinking, "What are they thinking?" Then go back to it, and think, "Ingenius!!!"  It's actually long-lasting.

Hopefully that answers a little bit of why I like sewing with Burda so well.  Knipmode, the jury is still out, but has a long way to go, and Vogue, Butterick and McCalls are not to be trusted, Simplicity has a lot more going for it, but still way behind Burda, and although the art-to-wear designers like Diane Ericson, Linda Lee and Lois Hinse are beautiful things, I think it's more fun to fit the body, than to just mask it.  And Marci Tilton, Claire Shaeffer and Sandra Betzina do an excellent job of keeping up the old Vogue standard, it's just they can't do it all by themselves.

 

Comments

[Karin]

I really enjoyed your post. As a newbie (maybe advanced beginner now) I find Burda patterns do go together easily and the pieces fit. On the other hand, their directions are nothing short of challenging. I usually muddle through despite being put off by the lack of clear instructions because I am seduced by the styles. I just "gotta have it!"

Have you looked at Ottobre? I just have one issue. I have not sewed anything yet. It is less fashionable and less formal than Burda with fewer styles, but the instructions are clearer and they go through more techniques. Probably not an interesting mag for an experienced seamstress, but a good start for beginners.

[melissa]

I'm glad to see you've got a subscription to KnipMode - I've been buying them for about 5 years now and 2010 was an AMAZING year for them. Holy crap, I sewed more KnipMode patterns last year than any other company! I personally thought this February issue was a bit "meh", but Jan, Dec, and Nov were just so stellar that I'm okay with the odd lukewarm reaction here and there.

And while I totally agree with you about Burda's drafting, I personally think their designs have gone way downhill in the past year. They had a change of management and started producing too many baggy, sacklike, and downright unflattering patterns in order to court beginners. But surely beginning sewers want to look nice, too? In my opinion, Burda only put out 2 or 3 great issues in 2010, compared against 8 or 9 from KnipMode.

And are you familiar with Patrones (Spanish), La Mia Boutique (Italian), Manequim (Brazilian) or MyImage (Dutch)? I did a rundown of all the different pattern magazines out there a few months ago that might be helpful for comparing the options.

[Sigrid]

These were exactly the patterns I bought February Burda for. Though Burda has not been so attractive to me in the last year, they certainly have good lines and are very consistent in sizes. I have subscribed to Knip Mode again this year, as their styles attract me more at the moment. It will be nice to know what your experiences are.

In your first picture I recognize the Montana pattern I made in the 80's, so special!

[Bunny]

Interesting observations and I am in agreement. When I first started sewing, in my teens, I detested Simplicity patterns. I could pick them out on someone else's body by their trademark dart placement which screamed Becky Home-Ecy. But today, Simplicity is right out front. From a style standpoint, I find myself going to them over and over. Check out Simp 2256. It is very similar to your Burda fave. What I like about your choice and 2256 are all the opportunities it offers for fit. How can you go wrong? One issue I have with the Project Runway patterns is how the segments of the garment have the yardages given individually. That's all fine and dandy but I think a disclaimer should be up in the description on the back. I grabbed this pattern thinking I had enough fabric for what is labeled "the long jacket" and later happened to catch that I needed to add in the sleeve yardage, etc. I can see one very unhappy newbie with this method of stating yardage. But I do like that the Project Runway patterns inspire, offering all sorts of personal design decisions to be made. Isn't that what it is all about?

[daiyami]

Thanks so much for explaining WHY everyone sews Burda, even though they talk about it like it's frustrating. I was scared off (as a novice), but now I see. I just bought a few Burda envelope patterns, so I will try those out.

And if McCalls/Vogue/Butterick seem wrong, I'll assume it's them and not me.

[Liz]

Well said! I agree completely. Burda's draft consistency and quality is tops. Vogue patterns are so disappointing these days. An Anne Klein suit jacket had pieces that were over an inch off and would never sew up right. I threw the pattern in the woodstove and watched the flames with delight.

[Gorgeous Things]

Sing it, sister! I gave up my BWOF this year. I find that they are starting to recycle patterns I have in issues from just a few years ago. And now that they have cut back to a single pattern sheet, it's way too much work to trace them off. So I'm a little steamed at them for that. But they are light years ahead in quality of draft, when compared with other pattern vendors out there.

[Nancy K]

I laugh when I look at vintage Vogue and say, I sewed that one, and that one etc. Today, I sew more Burda than anything else for exactly the same reasons you mention. They fit! The patterns are well drafted. They have the seams and darts that make them easy to alter for my DD bust. I can fit my figure with them. I have also found that I may not want to sew something from a particular issue, now, but next year? That's happened to me a lot. They sew up every pattern in every magazine. That is quite an accomplishment for a magazine that comes out every month and you know that it lets you know that it was drafted well enough to fit properly. Oh, and that Burda jacket from Feb, it's on my list too. It's got great lines and it can be an easy piece to wear for spring.
This was a great post Claire, clearly we are thinking alike. Not sure I want to pay for a Knipmode subscription yet. I've not made enough of the issues I have bought, but I am curious to see what you sew from them this year.

[Gaylene]

Hi Claire,
I really enjoy your blog and always read your comments with interest. I have been sewing for decades, enjoyed the Vogue designer patterns, but am disappointed with the value now, so much money for a pattern and then so many fitting problems (things look sloppy and big). Recently, I have been trying some Marfy patterns - expensive, but the fit is nice and classic lines. I like Burda, but find the tracing to be problematic - usually I miss a marking and then have to go back to the sheets. However, I am always tempted by your Burda choices, like that gray jacket above. Just lovely!
Sincerely,
Gaylene

[cidell]

I'm with Ann. I'm steamed about the one pattern sheet and I've only attempted one pattern from the change. But, I've been diving back into my older issues because garments that I was ambivalent about before are hitting it out of the ballpark for me now. I'll keep my subscription going.

I love Patrones but hardly sew from them. That's mostly because I can't sort out my size with them and I've just gotten so used to Burda's ways :)

[Sewcat]

Thank you for the post. I wish the people at BMV would read it. And then respond.

I learned on Vogue and loved the designs. I recently realized that I was not sewing from Vogue an thought my tastes had changed. Then I realized that it was nothing appealing because there are at least 2 things in every BWOF issue. When I realized that I had a subscription and had not bought a Vogue pattern in years, I gave it up.

Burda does appeal on many levels. I have a 19 year old daughter and last night she and her best friend were finishing up items they were making from the recent issues. So both will return to college with some interesting, well fitting pieces that don't scream "home made" but do say forward looking

The designs appeal to them and to me and they go together well. The only downside was a VERY poor translation in the directions on one top.

[Carolen]

This was exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Thank you for writing this excellent post.

[Jean]

What a great post --- thank you for sharing your thoughts. I used to sew Vogue patterns, but as my skills improved and I made clothes that had more "fit" to them, I found that the patterns didn't fit me well. I am impressed with the quality of the Burda patterns and the fit of the finished garments. I am unimpressed with their new line sheets and how difficult it is to discern the correct pattern lines! I'm bummed to see all of the cool Burda patterns in the Feb issue --- my husband forgot to renew my subscription (he usually does as one of my Christmas gifts) so I haven't received any issues in 2011 yet! Ugh!

[Summerset]

Agreed. Vogue was always the pinnacle of patterns for me growing up, too. They were the most stylish and most difficult to sew, but I learned a lot. Even to this day, I only look at Simplicity and McCall's out of curiosity and to get quick and trendy patterns for my daughter. Very, very rarely will I make something for myself from them. Since I was introduced to Burda, I've taken a real liking to those patterns, too. I have one Knipmode, and I liked it, but not sure if I want to get a subscription.

[Shelly]

Hello Claire, I have a drawer full of Vogue Patterns and can't resist the new designer patterns therefore I'm a bit nervous when one of my mentors says they have really gone downhill. I'm an intermediate sewer and would love to know what I should look out for when sewing up my Vogues. Thanks!

[Baking Soda]

From a lurker to commenter over Knip! I'm from Holland and sort of feel flattered because that's "our" Knip you're discussing! However.. I've just discontinued my subscription in favour of Burda...
I really like the fit and the attention to detail Burda displays although Knip is getting better, they've recently adapted their charts.
I love reading your blogsposts, thank you!

[Fran G]

Great post, Claire...very interesting and informative. BurdaStyle is my favorite choice, but, as others have mentioned, the tracing..which was never appealing..has really become a chore! Perhaps you can give some suggestions on how to more easily trace...that would be a really helpful post. Also, for those of us who cannot take your classes in person, ever consider an online class? A series that might follow the basic construction phases and charge a fee for an online class.

[Angela]

I can't find Burda Style where I live (the sticks!). Is there someplace I can get this online? I went to the Burda website, and can't find the most recent issue. That jacket sure is cute, and I want to make it!