The Chanel Tie Blouse

That's what I call it - actually this is BurdaStyle, September, 2010, #111 (view A or B)

 

Unfortunately this is hard to see the lines of this blouse in this wild print, but they're there.  I'll make this again cause it's got great lines - that classic scarf front that is great under a jacket.

There are a few things....the casing on the sleeves doesn't need those tie ends hanging down, but the ruched cuffs are cool - this is my preference, and of course you can shorten the sleeve.  If you do, my advice is to also widen it a bit and put a nice 2" cuff on the sleeve - just makes a nice ending here.  But those hanging ties have to go.

Next is the important part.  The buttons at the waist or actually at the hip don't work in my mind, when  tie/wrap-around is much better and more secure.  Part of the reason why is that this front piece extends all the way around and makes a nice closure in front without gaping which is the usual problem with wrap-arounds.

I added two bias ties at the waist (shown by the blue arrow).  The pink tie end (blouse left side) is sewn on to the edge of of the blouse at the waistline point.  The green tie end (blouse right) is sewn onto the edge at waist (under the wrap as shown), and a break in the right seam at waist is made to thread that green tie end through and then wrap around in back and....

Take the ties, pull the under side of the right side of the blouse through the slit in the seam, and the outside of the left side and tie in back.  If you want to make them long enough they can wrap around in front, you can do that too.  I wouldn't wrap these tight as the blouse is not made to fit that way, if you do want to wrap them tight, take in the back dart seam, side seams a little at the waist and that will make it fit better for a closer fit.  But this is for basically under a jacket so it can be comfy and doesn't need to fit tightly.  The blouse is already a great jacket blouse length, so you don't need to worry about that.

Unfortunately the whole ensemble is over at the Bernina store, and I haven't gotten my kazizz over there to get a snappie of it.

One last word here.  Why make the effort with this blouse - why not just pick another?  There's a lot that's right with this blouse, and I feel badly that I didn't mention this at the first of the post.

1. The big thing that's right about this blouse is the cross over.  Not on the bias, so economical cut, yet great drape, which usually doesn't come from a non-biased cut.
2. Second thing about the cross over is that the stance or place where the cross over hits center front is a modest point, it's not low cut and doesn't gap, which is a big problem with a lot of wrap arounds.  Usually you have to add a snap or hook or something to hold it in place for that "serving peanuts" position (You know that bend over look that oogle-eyed camera men love to get in the movies!)
3. Great back, darts, collar, nothing funky or hard to assemble or wear.  No "fixing" when wearing.
4. I love the ruched cuffs, just not the ties, but they can easily be altered into a cuff configuration, but I think the ruched cuffs are a great look.
5. Length is perfect for jackets, short and long.
6. Great shoulder and armscye - nice and crisp with a crisp under arm so that the jacket underarm can fit nicely without having to buckle or bunch under the jacket.

So it's worth it to mess with this pattern a little, cause it's got a lot of style to it.  But it's also got a lot of good pattern cut to it that you don't have to mess with, and frankly, adding two ties, and slitting a seam at the waist to run the tie through is honestly no big deal - oh yeah, and taking those tie thingies off!

 

Comments

[Karin]

I made this top and you are spot on. The ties drive me nuts. They get in the way of everything. You are also correct about the buttons, they don't tend to stay attached. And you are right, it's a great fit and modest in the front. I don't have to mess with it at all.

[Hatty]

I made this in a knit, and took off the ties and the ruched cuffs. I just don't like ruched cuffs. I end up tugging them up and down irritably all the time. I put the buttons on the hips - both hips. I made bound buttonholes in the top wrap piece, two at each hip, and put the buttons on the bottom wrap piece - two on each hip. (I put little bits of iron-on stretch interfacing where necessary. It's warm, cosy, stylish, comfortable (and decent) and the four beautiful buttons emphasize the hips in a good way and give me an hour-glass shape that I really don't have (I'm more of a column!). I thought about ties too, but decided to give buttons a shot. It works. I'm really happy with it.

[Carolyn]

I don't have this pattern, but I like the look and the changes you have made. Thanks!

[elaine healy]

I love the blouse Claire and I agree about the ties on the sleeves. Could you get the ruched effect on the sleeves by stitching a piece of elastic where the ties are supposed to be ? It would make pushing up the sleeves easy and less fussy then the ties. Still, I love the review and will have to get out my september issue!

[sewing spots]

Great analysis of this pattern! Very interesting to read.

[claudine]

I love this blouse, and I think the busy fabric adds to the appeal. It looks very scarf-like.

Rather than make it tie around the waist, you could keep the buttons and make a camisole from the same fabric to wear under it. This will allow you to keep the look of the drapey front, and you won't have to worry about it being too revealing when it gapes. If you are short on fabric for a camisole, you can just make the front with self fabric and the back with another fabric.

[Darci]

SUPER helpful follow up. That blouse is just gorgeous and I'm so glad you walked me thru the alterations.

"Serving peanuts" made me laugh>> it's so true! LOL

[Bunny]

Great top and even better with your improvements. Thanks, Claire.