What's the matter with Vogue Patterns

Well, might as well jump right in on this one and get into a whole passel of trouble.

I'm not trying to dis Vogue.  But to be honest, I'm not sure what they're up to, or how they hope to make any $$$ with what's going on.

Here's the problem....I scrounged through some of my old patterns (won't get too old here), in the catacombs and found these gems, and they were (and still are) gems)

A jewel by Ralph Lauren.  I made that jacket 2 times and wore the daylights out of both of them.  It fit gorgeous snug around my little waist, and those puffy sleeves (OK it's dated now, but back then it was the rage!), made my little waist look even smaller.  This pattern was in the "couture" or advanced category, and it was not easy, but it went together well, the markings matched and when the bustpoint said it was 34" it was, but had a nice 1½" ease built in.  The waist had a 1" ease.  When you measured from bustpoint to waist to shoulder you got reasonable measurements (the bustpoint was pretty on target).  And the back was as well.  Obviously if you were sway back there would be adjustments, but for the most part the pattern measurements were good.

But here's the real thing....the sides matched on the patterns - with or without adjustments, the facings matched, the notches matched.  If you put a sleeve together matching those notches, it would come out like the sleeve on the photograph.

That's good pattern design - the mechanics of the pattern are good as well as the line and cut. 

Vogue also had VEV, which had great design.  This looks like a sack and doesn't have many seams, but back in the day, yada, yada, yada...I made that top a number of times, and it was perfect for what I wanted.  It was easy (fewer pieces) and yet had great detail in that front placket and collar, and looked just like the pictures....the sleeve went in just as the picture shows, and the mechanics were good.

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Vogue even had international designers, and I loved this jewel.  I know the shoulders are somewhere large even comparing to Michael Oher, but it was the style, and this fit beautifully.....that little pocket thing in there has a dart and fitting to make it hug around your hips easy as pie! And the pattern made that dart mechanics work beautifully.

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OK - here's a perfect example of classic (if you don't have me as your friend on Facebook, go over there and friend me.  I put little jewels up all the time over there - and today I talk about what is classic and what isn't using this pattern - click here).  This pattern has to fit.  Those darts have to work.  Additionally the bodice waist darts and skirt hip darts have to match as the waist and they do, because they are marked well.  The mechanics are good.

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Lastly a staple was always a Calvin Klein here and there, and this jacket and skirt were great.  This collar and neckline just screamed to me, "Make me up NOW!!!" And I did and it was not that hard, because the pattern markings were right on.

So what Vogue had was not only had the most up to date patterns, but also had the patterns that had good mechanics.  They would lay out the designer clothes and copy them piece by piece, of course with the designers blessing and permission, but the patterns had good guts.

This is the part that really makes Vogue a problem today.  They KNOW how to do this, but either don't care anymore, or just aren't doing it.  They KNOW what good style and design is, but just aren't doing it.  And you can't say that it's not out there....I spent a couple of days recently in a metro area spooking the local stores and there are beautiful clothes out there. 

So my complaint with Vogue is two-fold. 

1. They know what good mechanics and construction is and just aren't doing it any more in their patterns, AND
2. they know what good design/designers is/are and aren't doing that as well.

This is all well and good for those of us who have experienced Vogue for what they used to be and know there's a difference today, but for those who don't...new to sewing or else younger that they've never known these patterns or way of sewing, and the pattern mechanics are not good or off, the young sewists thinks it's their fault. 

And it's not.....

It's the fault of the pattern, not the sewist.  After you've sewn with these a couple of times and the result is the same, a confused or messed up result because of the poor pattern mechanics, pretty soon the newbie thinks that they weren't meant to sew, or there's something wrong with them....when it's not them.

My sewing improved unbelievably when I purchased an excellent sewing machine, and when I began sewing with excellent patterns - at the time that was Vogue patterns.

Today, it's probably spread throughout, but Burda seems to be the company that takes the place of the void left by Vogue.  You can get them online at several sources

• SewingPatterns.com - they also have a variety of other patterns, but also some from their seasonal catalog.
• BurdaStyle.com - this site is a little controversial, as the sites for other countries, German and France in particular, have a lot more from the magazine, but the US/English site has a bunch to download along with the Burdamode group that did variations on these patterns.  It's a creative, site, but also they have stuff from the magazine that you can download, so it's worth checking out to see what they have on a regular basis.
• BurdaStyle Magazine - Here you can subscribe to BurdaStyle magazine...depending upon how fast you want the delivery.

Comments

[Nancy K]

I couldn't agree more. I sewed Vogue designer patterns in the same era that you did. I made them without anyone helping me and they worked. I didn't have the kinds of issues that so many women complain about today. If I had I probably wouldn't still be sewing! It's not just the technical issues, but I don't think that they have a clear picture of the woman they are selling these patterns to. We wonder why women aren't sewing anymore, and there are lots of reasons of course, but bad patterns don't help.

[Bunny]

Another vintage babe chiming in! I sewed those Vogue patterns as well. Never had the issues I have with today's designs. Patterns are just not clear! Except for maybe Claire Shaeffer's.

[Theresa in Tucson]

It sounds like the experienced pattern makers are gone and have been replaced with inexperienced pattern makers.

[Carol Trendall]

I agree, too. I was given a very large collection of 70s and 80's Vogue designer patterns some years ago and I still use them. Many of them are not too far removed from modern patterns, style wise. The instructions are clear and the patterns well drafted. Perhaps todays patterns are just all computer drafted and not checked by humans. I'm about to cut out a jacket from a Vogue designer pattern that dates from 1983. I'd wear that Ralph Lauren dress and the Emanuel Ungaro just needs a different sleeve ... now I have an urge to rush down to my sewing room and pull out some old patterns!

[Handmade]

Interesting thoughts Claire. I think we can cope with incompetence with the "other" brands - but since Vogue charges the premium price - we should expect a premium product!

[ClaireOKC]

Well, I really didn't want to make this out to be such a negative blog, but more than anything I wanted to get across to people who have worked with these patterns and had trouble, IT IS NOT YOUR FAULT! Or at least don't let that be your first thought. Try another pattern company, and of late my favorite has been Burda.

[sdBev]

Claire I see this across the board. We've all taken a "Micrsoft" attitude. Release now and fix it later. We no longer seem to pridefully demonstrate our competance. We accept substandard as "good enough" both as recipient and as performer. I'm glad to see you make a point of excellence and I love to see the excellence in your own work. Please keep it up.

[Pin Queen]

I'm going to agree with you all too. I think Vogue have lost some of those top designers they had from the 80's (and earlier) and there just isn't the calibre left in the business - why can't we have Karl Largerfeld (after all, Burda have!) and I personally would LOVE to see a jacket/skirt from Vivienne Westwood in my pattern collection. Where are the Dior dresses these days? Kay Unger's dresses are nice, but nothing very exciting - or is that just me getting older? Plus at nearly £15 per pattern I want to use it more than once....

[melissa]

Claire - just a small point - but could you please add to that last link that GLP are for US subscriptions only?

And I totally agree about beginning sewers always thinking it's their fault, it's so sad and discouraging!

[Shelly]

Thank you Claire. This gives lots of insight as I tackle the Vogues that I just have to make up. I will start tracing off some Burda as well.
Shelly

[Naomi]

Oh yes, very well said! It's really very sad what has happened to Vogue Patterns. Although their magazine seems to have improved, the patterns are sorely lacking in quality and interest. Even Simplicity 'Threads' patterns seem better options. But Burda rules!! I can only hope someone, somewhere, from Vogue follows your blog and takes note. Change is always possible.I don't think it's being negative, but rather an alert to comsumers.

[Christy Sanford]

I have experienced exactly what you speaking about. Last year, I (intermediate sewer) helped my Mother-in-Law (Very Adavnced sewer) with brides maids gowns made from a Vogue pattern. I cut the 1st gown and when my Mother-in-Law went to sew it, it was off. She insisted I had cut something "wonky" because it was a Vogue and Vogue are good patterns. It wasn't until she cut the 2nd gown, that she realized it was the pattern that was wonky. I am in awe of my Mother-in-Laws skills and strive to be the semstress she is and the whole experience had me questioning my skills. I was so relieved that it happened to her as well.

[Caro]

I find the ease issue incredibly frustrating - across the board. Before I knew to look on the pattern tissue paper for the actual hip / bust / waist measurements I'd get incredibly confused by how ill-fitting Vogue patterns were.

I know sew Burda Style almost exclusively. I find them very well drafted, and it's easy to discern which size is yours.

[Judy]

I just got back into sewing after a good ten years and found that the pattern I tackled was off. I intentionally got a Simplicity-because I thought it would be simple. I was so disappointed. Now I am hesitant to try again. I think I will look for a Burda pattern to try.

[Karen]

Thank you so much for this post!! I learned to sew in the 70's and just recently started again after a 30 year hiatus..And I know my body has changed, but I was starting to think there was really something wrong with me that I was having so much trouble with new patterns. I had been able to sew anything at one time, and now I couldn't even get a simple skirt to work?? I will have to start looking more closely at Burda. I have a couple of their plus size mags and just adore the styles...the latest one has some great things for spring..

[HeleenH]

I like Burda, but I also like Ottobre, from Finland.
http://www.ottobredesign.com/

[Lesley]

Oh I am so pleased I found your post. Like Judy I only recently got back to dressmaking after a long gap. Last year my daughter chose a wedding dress pattern and bridesmaids pattern from the Vogue catalogue. It was a nightmare getting any of them to fit (beautiful young bodies in UK sizes 10 and 12!)and my friend who is much more experienced than I am had as much difficulty with the bridesmaids' dresses as I had with the wedding dress. Success only came with a complete restyle. I am just in the process of throwing another dress in the bin having tried for 3 days to adjust it to fit me. Total frustration and yes I did think I had lost my skills. I will try a Burda pattern next and see if I can have more success.