The Wedding Fashion

This isn't what you think - yes, Kate's dress was fabulous, appropriate and expected, but what I really loved about the fashion were the guests.....

Let's face it, when you're the queen, you don't have much time for the treadmill or even an evening walk after dinner.  Life is hectic when you're a royal.

That means that you usually develop a "grande dame" shape - sort of sqaushed down look where the shoulders seem to drop a bit and make the waist disappear, sometimes with the whole body listing one direction or another.

What's a grandmother to do when you have your grandson getting married.  Well, get something made that makes you look absolutely fabulous.  In Europe, as opposed to US, if it's an important event you're dressing for, there's no decision - you have it made.  And this is where I had so much fun at the wedding broadcast, looking at all th imperfect figures dressed beautifully - why?....because they all fit and looked great.

Let's start with the most glaring of fashion problems - Camilla....er that's Camiller!!! (OK I can't stand it - I have to be a litlte irreverent amongst all this high ettiquette!)  This is a gal who practices looking dowdy and un-pretty, but she actually looked good on Kate's wedding day.

I'm not sure who did this (I've later discovered it was Anna Valentine who also did Camiller's wedding dress, which was also stunning, click here), but she needs to win some sort of slight of hand or eye award as Camilla looked really good in this.  AND it fit....you can't tell here (cause she's waving - bringing up a point, when you fit, you want to fit still, hips even, legs even, hands at side, but when you move you will have some wrinkles...these are the wrinkles that you do not want nor have to fit.  I know that sounds basic, but it's worth noting).  The two-toned look with the lace trim around the bottom does a lot - it doesn't ad a lot of bulk to the hip (which Camiller doesn't need), but also it breaks up the dress/coat, makes it more interesting.  The lace trim also hits at a good spot on Camiller as it doesn't accentuate her thick waist nor her tummy or hips, but fits around them.

More on the Queen's outfit, but look at the collar on Camiller's jacket/dress....really really  neat - here's another picture....

....this shoes more of how the color looked - it flared open and frame Camiller's face really well. 

Back to this pic again, cause it shows the great fit.  You may not be able to see it, but the outfit had a princess seam from the shoulder straight through the bust point and through to the bottom of the bodice.  Then at the lace line....

...it stopped.  But to the side started a series of box pleats, which flared beautifully when she walked.  This also gave a full-skirt look, that made her waist look smaller.   The box pleats add fullness without making Camiller look extra hippy which can be a problem with her shape.

The main thing here is that Camiller has a squatty-body and she looked really shapely and nice....my point is that when you are fit, you look nice, well-kept and actually thinner than if things are either too small or stretch is stretched too small acorss the body.

Now to the grande dame of them all....the Queen - another squatty-body.

I loved the detail around her neckline....this is always where I like to put the "money" part of a dress or garment.  It's closest to your face and where you want the most attention.

I love the idea of this - darts that are pin-tucked or over-stitched into a sun-burst design.  Nice detail.

 
Look at how beautifully this dress hangs.  This is one sign of a well-made garment.  It has shape, yet it fits the Queen beautifully, and moves very well.  Granted there's not much fit here, or so it looks that way, but the dress hangs straight, it had good movement, it has to be comfortable, conservative style and make the wearer look good.  This takes more than you think.

The first place the designer started was with side darts and since there are a plethora of darts in the sun-burst design around the neck line, the designer most likely didn't have to do any darts below the bust - just the side bust dart.  This is what gives the Queen's coat shape without looking all darted - which is a favorite style these days (not having that under bust vertical dart).

And here's a wonderful technique for a figure that has no shape...the designer here took the attention away from the shape and put it around the neckline.  The designer (with that princess seam again) took the fit of the coat to make it very basic/classic and then put the pizazz of the design around the neckline to show off the client's best feature:  her warm cheery smile.

I really don't think she's wearing any panties here (especially grandma ones), and even though it looks like she has a VPL (visible panty line), this looks just like a coincidental fold or design in the dress.  She's defniitely not wearing hose, so I think this is just a quirk of the photograph.  But the fit here is excellent.  See how the dress shapes to her, yet doesn't look too small or have bad wrinkles.  It just fits.  This is so cool and so hard to do - a very sheer (and most likely delicate beyond belief) lace over a silk charmeuse. 

Another wonderful look was the back treatment on a lot of the ensembles worn.

Is it just me - or is there a preponderance of jacket/dresses or jacket/coats?  I liked that.  They're classic and yet very interchangeable...next time you're thinking a jacket...think about a jacket/coat.

There were lots of dresses I didn't like, but mostly I was impressed with how all the normally shaped bodies were beautifully fit.  Europe seems to do that very well.  Maybe it's cause they aren't obsessed with thinness.  One thing I like about the Brits and their fashion.

Another is Alexander McQueen and his heir apparent....Sarah Burton!

Comments

[Meredith P]

Lovely and informative post. Thank you. I thought the Queen looked exceptionally good in the yellow.

I would guess the preponderance of coats/coatdresses were a nod to the weather? And unheated churches?

I have to admit, I wasn't all that interested this time around (except for the bride's dress of course) until I heard about the trees in the Abbey. And once I started watching, I couldn't stop. Lovely day, all around.

[Bunny]

I totally agree with all you have said. I thought Camilla looked wonderful. Those pale frosty colors are also so becoming on an older face with whitish hair. There is a lot we can learn from these women and their stylists. I also loved the preponderance of coat/jackets over dress. It just all seemed so appropriate and lady like.

The Prime Minister's wife looked lovely as well. She has a great youthful figure and wore that slim ruched affair very well. But wear the heck was her hat? I think the lack of a hat gave her the impression of being underdressed for the event. I wonder if she regrets it now or could care.

[Robin]

yup, agreed! I noticed a lot of the same things you did and I just loved all the coat dresses.

[Carolyn]

I'm so glad that you pointed out how well Camilla's dress fit her body as well as the Queen's. I was actually thinking of stealing those darts and adding them to a work dress because my standard fit is side darts and something interesting at the neckline with a great pair of heels to hide my chunkiness!

Both of their evening gowns were just as pretty for the event the night before...definitely outfits made just for them for this special weekend!

[vicki]

Thanks for showing the outfits and commenting on the fit. It just goes to show how important fit is.

[Elaine Good]

Thanks for all the great photos and discussion of fit! I definitely agree with you about the amazing fit on the Queen and Camilla.

[lb]

I really appreciate this blog entry. And I enjoyed your expertise and the pictures that followed. I'm just starting to learn how to sew. So, when you basically said that it was obvious Camilla's jacket would not look fitted when she is waving because fitted clothes look fitted when a person is standing normally, arms down, it made me realize that that should be obvious, but I'm not sure I really knew that. So, thanks for saying it.

I thought high armholes helped prevent the jacket from raising, or helped keep the shoulders down? That is one of the reasons I want to learn to sew. I find most jackets/shirts have too large/low of an armhole and it restricts my arm movements, a lot. Any advice? Thanks, if you have the time.

[ClaireOKC]

Thanks for all the feedback....

@Carolyn - I'm wanting to do a newsletter on Camilla's makeover by Anna Valentine...I love what she's done for her, and it's worth a more detailed look cause this is a great look for a lot of people.

@Ib - Armholes can me a nightmare...another newsletter...keep watching for this, cause this is another spot that may seem like a nightmare, but it is solvable!

[Lisa]

Thanks for the lesson on Fit. I really liked your discussion about Kate's dress. It was fascinating.
I have signed up for one of your classes at Bernina OKC. Would you please PM me to discuss the best use of time for the class? Thanks! :)

Lisa

[Anne-Marie]

An excellent review thank you Claire !