Claire Kennedy Design

Can I brag on my students...

I must be the luckiest person alive.  My students are not only a lot of fun, but very creative, and it just doesn't stop.

We've spent the last 3 months (actually 4 cause we were snow delayed one month), working on their Chanel jackets, and all I can say is WOW!

 

I have a gallery up here, but not everyone's jacket is there, as I wasn't able to get photographs of everyone, but will post the rest when they are finished!!!

 

You can see this is a bunch of gals that were just dying to get their creative juices out. 

What fun!

A class finished and a pattern review

Another pants class finished and yes, every one of my students walked out with a pants pattern even some of those who were earlier discouraged!

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees!

But most interesting of all was one of the patterns.  Most everyone used Vogue 1003, an old standard sloper type pattern for pants, which I have always like using.  However one of my students elected to use a Sandra Betzina pattern Vogue 1034. We looked at it together and both of us thought it looked fine.

 

There's nothing too funny or tricky here, so we were really shocked, when she cut it out, and the legs were twisted.  So she cut again.  I watched and made sure she was on the straight.  Her fit was great, but the legs were still twisted.  At this point, I tell her we can spend umpteen million hours figuring out why, or we can cure the problem and go on down the road.  She has the pants on and I draw a straight line from her inseam to hem, and from her hip to hem.  This will make sure that she has a straight on her.

 

Here is what it looked like comparing the side seam old (red) and side seam new (black).  That's her standing next to it and you can see that she has not strange torque or twist of body shape.

To this day we are not sure what happened.  There could have easily been a misprint in the pattern, although it didn't look off, and I watched her lay out and cut out the second time, and there was exactly the same problem - exactly, the second time.  However, this is very perplexing cause I think Sandra Betzina takes particular care in her designs to make them correct.

This brings up an interesting philosophy about how I sew and what I do to solve situations like this.  I would rather sew than figure the trajectory of twist of reality versus the torque of a what appears to be a straight line.  The point here is that I want it to hang straight and pitch correctly on my student.  So that's my solution to this.

On another occasion, I may want an irregular darting or working of darts or gathers, and want something to torque or twist and may want to do the exact opposite - sew a straight line that will purposely torque.  The most recent example is my "no straight lines" pattern.

I couldn't have done this without putting this on my mannequin or putting the pants on my student.

The purpose of all this is to make the point about fitting.  It was virtually impossible for my student to fully see what the problem was, much less fix it while she had the pants on, yet we, both of us, couldn't see anything the matter on the pattern while she was looking head long into it on the table.

Think about this while you're fitting yourself.  And do not think you're a poor sewist if you can't fit yourself.  No one can.

The "Girls"

Meet the girls:

Rochelle, Simone, Bandée and Dominique for a few!

What great class we had with the Mannequins, and this just shows all the different sizes we made in class today.  I was so proud of each and every student, who went home with a working mannequin, and it was tremendous fun for me today when we learned how to use the mannequin to watch all the students get excited with the possibilities open to them now that they have an incredible fitting aid.

To be able to work all the way around a mannequin while fitting yourself, is a total treat.  Most fun was to watch some of the students put old projects on the mannequin to see all the fitting problems, and solve them, only to put them on their own bodies as a final test of the fitting, and the fitting worked.

Each student had her own fitting challenges to solve and although fitting the mannequin covers over and over till we got an accurate model of each student was trying, in the end it was well worth it.  This is a very challenging task to make a workable and correctly-sized form, but each student was very committed to seeing this through to a successful end.

 

 

One of my students came up with a wonderful invention.  For the top of her mannequin she poked two holes in the bottom of her pin caddy which successfully balanced and attached the pins so they were easily handy for any fitting.

Most of all it's fun to watch each of my students get excited about sewing, as if they were discovering for the first time all over again!

Nancy K and the Vogue 1167 Jacket

I was over at Nancy K's blog and noticing that she was having a dilemma about picking out a new pattern.

I notice this a lot with my students, and this is another one of those things that I do so regularly, that I don't realize I know what I know - if you know what I mean!  OK, that sounds confusing to me - can only guess how it sounds to you.

So with Nancy's permission, here is a perfectly good example (with thanks from Nancy) is how I would approach her if she were a client of mine.

First, (I would be very lucky to have her as a client cause she obviously puts a lot of care and thought into her appearance), is her shape.

I think of Nancy as being more straight up and down rather than any other shape, and she is not short, however has to be careful about being "cut in half".  Neither one of these are serious flaws, but do have to be considered in pattern selection, pattern alteration and pattern design.

She's been looking at Vogue 1167, which I think is a good pattern for her, but will require a little work before it really becomes a WOW jacket - and this is what we're after here - a WOW look!  And let's be honest - every pattern needs some work to become a WOW garment.

So I think this is a good pattern and a classic one.  But first some critique on the photo above.  Nancy got this right off....it's been clothespinned in the back - meaning that they've nipped it in, in back, during the photo shoot to make the jacket look a little better....but we can do that too, only  in a different more permanent way.

The next thing is that the jacket sleeves have some fullness to them that might be a problem for another figure, but not for Nancy, so let's not take on more here than we need to....just wanted to mention that about the sleeves.

That said, this jacket has some good points....the side bust darts are excellent, the 3/4 sleeve length is great for looking taller/less bulky, but this jacket needs more than that to make it work. 

The waist must be delineated in this pattern - there is not waist and the side bust darts are good but they aren't good enough: (the back view)

 

I mean cummon now....you can't tell me the picture of the finished garment (the one above this one) hasn't been clothepinned at the waist when you look at this line drawing!!!

 

Looking at either solution here (center back seam or side back darts) either one of these solutions will solve the waist look (and OK I manipulated the side seam of the original drawing to make my point here, but this WILL work!).  However, from an aesthetic point of view, and taking into consideration the line of the pattern, I personally like the center back seam the best on this style.....there's a boxy, sort of 70's-ish look to this, and this would have been a typical seam in those days - and I know this only cause I was sewing back then (you understand I was 3 y/o then.....OK maybe a little older!)

Here's using the Armani line technique on this waist to also help in this.

 

Armani would nip in a little above the waist, (in the illustration the red line is actual waist, and blue line is where the pattern has been nipped in the most) for the smallest part of the jacket waist (I did a little blurb on this here), but the whole idea is that if there is a more graduated line from the bust to the waist and from the waist to the hip, rather than the beloved "muffin top" look, then this is not only more presentable, but actually flattering!!!  What a concept!!!

The next thing is that Nancy has to be careful about being cut in half. So she has to be careful where the jacket hem hits her.  She also has to be careful that the jacket doesn't do a "Flying Wallenda" and accentuate an area that doesn't really need accentuating.  So where's that perfect line?!

Easy - it's where her tummy or hip (which ever is the most delicate for her) sticks out the most.

This is a mathematical formula that works every time:

If she wants to de-accentuate her tummy & bust, then she makes the line from where it sticks out the most to where it goes in the most, as smooth as possible.  In the case of her tummy, she has all the way from the most protruding spot, to the hem to make that line smooth.  In the case of her bust, she has from the bust point to the waist to make that as smooth.

The opposite works well too.....for my gals who have little or no busts, I fit right under that bust line and make it close to the body and poof - like magic, they have a va-va-voom sexy bustline - or at least it makes them look like they do!

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So here's the bottom line on this jacket....she has to be careful of the hem, she has to do a center back seam and take in the waist a little above the waist, and take in the waist on the side seam a little above the waist, and voila - she has a perfectly great jacket that will work well in a lot of situations.  And something that is classic enough to be done again and again and still look the same!

Gee, after looking at this pattern, I like it too.  I probably wouldn't have noticed it since it doesn't have the trademark high neck collar that I love so much (to cover my thin bird neck), but the more I look at the the more I like it for summer and spring!  Oh dang, the pattern isn't even available yet.  Why does Vogue do that?!!

Year end; year begin

I run another blog off of this one.  It's not as active, but a blog that's near and dear to me.  It's about faith and not only having faith, but about having faith in yourself.

I've been thinking a lot about this, especially after my pants class last November where I learned almost as much as my students. 

I'm used to dealing with my clients, and I know it takes a lot of "faith" to knock on my door and put the delivery of my clients' dreams in my hands without seeing the end product.  But my reputation is that, as a client, you may not necessarily totally know what you're going to get, but you know that consistently my clients are very pleased.  My clients satisfaction is paramount:  that's my rep.

I want the same thing for my students. 

I want them to walk away from a class not only learning how to do what they paid to learn, but some wonderful ancillary techniques and information that can enhance their whole outlook about sewing and creating their dream wardrobe.

As a matter of fact, this is becoming an obsession.  Here locally, I'm pretty clear how to tackle this.  My enthusiasm is very infective one-on-one or in a personal class.  But I'm left with how to infuse that enthusiasm and jump-started-ness to students outside my immediate area.

It's frustrating for me to try and answer this when I receive emails or phone calls from prospective students who can not make it to the class or are too far away to travel to the class even for private lessons.

The idea of empowering my students not only with enthusiasm, but to get them to at least try to challenge themselves and watch them work through the usually stumbling points, and progress past that, is so much fun for me - that it's very addictive to me. 

I see so many times my students have this preconceived idea that this is impossible or that won't work on their body or their shape won't allow them to look nice this or that way, when all they need is a little extra help with fitting or technique-instruction, and poof - like some magic fairy godmother;  here they are not only solving their usual stumbling blocks, but whizzing on down the road like a formula one out of the pit stop!

This is probably because I'm reliving the same exciting experience I had when I realized I could do anything!  It's addictive and full of energy.

This has consumed me for the last month because I would not only like to pass this on to the students in my immediate area, but to others outside my area.  Not only do I know that I can fit almost any shape, I've done it with my clients.

I have this vision of sitting in front of a mega-computer with a camera and students from all over the world on my computer and we're moving around and I'm telling them to turn a little and pinch in here and check that, and how it feels, and how it looks and on and on....with the problem solved and students eyes wide with realization that they really CAN do it! 

Wa-ha-ha-ha....isn't that the evil witch's laugh!!!!

For the new year, this is my big New Year's Resolution:  to figure out how to do this (without the special effects needed to make Avatar!) for my students locally as well as regionally and wherever the internet will reach. 

Heck - if Martians want to learn, I'm sure I could do that too!

Jacket Class for February, 2010

I'll be doing a class at Bernina this spring - as per request from my students....a jacket class to go with their pants!

You can email Bernina of OKC here for details and to make reservations.  Here are the details on the class, and class supplies.   

And if you can not make those classes or one or two but not all, I also do private classes on your schedule.

Here's a jacket I did, which is a "try out" for the Chanel jacket I've been trying to finish which now appears (since I have a deadline), to get done for this class.

I love everything about this jacket, except that the sleeve head did not "puff" like I like a very tailored jacket to do.

This is easy to fix....just added a bias cut piece of horsehair canvas.  It's not made of horsehair - maybe it was at one time, but not now, but it has marvelous shaping qualities.

It's pinned in as if the outside curve is flat with the sleeve head, which  means it will ease into the armhole.

 

Sewn in on the seam or just a scant outside (in the seam) from the seam line so as not to show on the outside armhole seam.  Hopefully that makes sense.,

Here's the difference - look at how that pops up.  OK it's isn't all that noticeable, but it is to me!

I'm picky.  What can I say - I could promise to make it a #1 project for New Year's resolutions - OK I can't do that either!  I'm hopeless!!!!  I[m permanently picky!

 

Oh and one more thing....I really don't like large wobbly buttonholes.

So I did a seam on center front and just separated it where the buttonholes were - same on the cuff and it turned out really well.  Very effective!

Another successful class

This is possibly one of my best classes to date.  Everyone was so wonderful and the whole group wanted to learn - and why not.  A pair of well fitting pants are like a dream.  And as if I didn't already know this, every body shape is completely different.  

For one of my students we put the old envelope pattern over the newly finished muslin and examined it.  She was pretty much in line with pattern except that the pattern (for her) tilted the wrong way.  Once we got the hang perpendicular to the floor, she looked great.

 

It also goes to show that any figure can be fitted.  I've always felt this strongly as I've fitted all my clients, and today's class proved it once again.

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After each fitting there was usually a little "un-sewing" and then sewing a new line and another fitting.

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Back to sewing again - this is the great classroom they have at my local Bernina.  I'm very fortunate cause not only do they have great service for any of the Berninas, but they also are a great group of very creative people who work and teach there.

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After a pattern is completely fitted and done, then it is completely taken apart and all seam lines are traced with a permanent marker.

 

The great news is that every member of the class walked away with a pattern that works for them.  Not only does it fit, but some class members found out interesting information about themselves - some do not like waistbands at all, some like only back zippers. 

This is a wonderful insight into each member's likes and dislikes.  Some took a little longer as we had to determine what they really liked.

This is one of the things we home sewists know and enjoy - we know what we like, because we are used to doing and creating it for ourselves every day.  But it is fun to watch newbies discover this.  I think my favorite moment was when we talked about variations...shorts, front/back zips, side slant pockets, welt pockets, pleats, flat-no pleats, capris, dress/silk pants, casual cotton twill pants - really the variations are endless - just from one pattern.

The Tunic Class

As promised - here are pics from the class which was a huge success..

 

Each student had their own space and we all spread out to sew and have a lot of fun

With a fitting or two we were able to tweak each tunic so each student got to have personal fitting techniques

 

Most of all we all had a lot of fun and everyone (including me) was inspired to do some more sewing!!!

Pants Pattern Fitting Class

Having a pair of pants that fit is a dream come true.

Have you wanted a pair of pants that
    ●    Doesn’t bag when you stand, yet has room when you sit
    ●    hangs strait from the waist and hips and stomach and doesn’t “tilt” front or back
    ●    feels good, yet looks good

In ready-to-wear, this is a dream of a request. There is no way RTW can accomplish this, but we as sewists have this ultimate luxury.  Once you know how to fit and create a base pattern, you're home free.  Why?  Cause in one afternoon, you can cut and finish a pair of pants.  It's the fit that's the hard part.

In my November class at Bernina North, ((405) 681-2212 is the phone to call and make reservations), I will show you how to make and fit a pants pattern.  You will walk away from the class not only with a usable pattern but with variations on that pattern to make all sorts of interesting and fun pants type garments.

You will learn:
    ●    How to fit your pants
    ●    Make a pants pattern in muslin for yourself
    ●    Learn how to make pants from that muslin
    ●    Learn variations on your pants pattern


This class will show you how to fit your pants (and why if you want to know!), and you will leave with a pants pattern in muslin that will fit, but also with many variations such as side pocket on the angle from the waist, side seam pockets, welt pockets, front flap zipper, back centered zipper, boot legged, chimney or stove-pipe legs, tapered leg, pull-on tie or elastic waist, culottes, shorts, sportswear finishing techniques, dressy-pant finishing techniques.

Here's a little more techy info about the class:  click here.

Bring muslin (you can get it at Joann's on NW Expressway & 63rd - about 2 1/4 yds 60" wide), pattern (see below suggestions), scissors, measuring tape, I will provide a measuring chart, pins, zipper (preferably 9" - I really don't recommend 7" for pants), thread, machine and if you like some fabric that you would like ideas about details on how to take your pattern and make the pants in fabric.  (That didn't sound clear - so I'll try again!).  IOW, if you want some fabric ideas, I will be so happy to help you out on that too.

Supplies: measuring tape, pattern (a simple pants pattern - some suggestions are: Vogue 1003, Vogue 2532, Butterick 5222, Burda 8341, Burda 2923. Buy the pattern size according to the largest part of your hip, stomach or waist - whatever your shape is).  I recommend the Vogue 1003 the most.  It has no style, at the waist, and an excellent basic pattern to fit (we won't be having "off the hip" pants forever - I promise!), and then Burda 8332 next.  The other pants have more style in them, and we will be making alterations to make sure that the pants pattern fit at the waist.

Skill level: basic understanding of sewing: (sewing seams, you do not have to be an expert zipper installer).
Class is on November 4th, 5th, 6th, with an additional class if you want for an extra fee on the 7th.  The cost is $75.

If you have any questions - just email me (click here).  If that link doesn't work, there's a link on my "about" page on this blog