Claire Kennedy Design

Ciphers and Monograms

I can't believe I haven't done this before - I could have sworn I did, so if I did, bear with me.

One of the fun things that is fun to do to personalize my designs is to insert a personalized monogram or cipher.  In my former life, I did a lot of calligraphy, and embroidery seems to be a wonderful off shoot of that love.

It can be anything....a monogram with a date:  RLS, July 12, 2008

This is what I call one of my ciphers...where the whole name is in a certain area...this was for my cousin Victoria...Tori! It's hard to see here since this was white on white.

Another cipher of two initials intertwined:  KS (not the state!)

This was a prototype for a man - not for a wedding - so more masculine...it was white on muslin, just to see what it would look like.HMS

This was a beautiful silk, double-faced satin ribbon for a bride, with her initials and her new last name (4 letters) with a date:  LC with the two larger initials S (maiden name) and F (married name)

This was a ring pillow for one of my brides with the groom's and bride's last initials on the pillow: C & W

Another monogram inside the bridal gown with the date:  AA were the bride's given name, P (maiden name) and B (married name)

Here is my cipher. (Claire)

This was for my cousin's child's CG (Christening Gown), however I don't think we ended up using this design, but I liked it very much:  PJK

This was for my sister:  Laura - a cipher all in one area, but still legible.

Another cipher - Mary.

And yes, I'm Irish...I've always loved the Chi Rho page from the Book of Kells.....

So hopefully that gives you a little feel for monographs and ciphers

Oriental vs Occidental

This is not meant to be a complete reference on the difference between the two cultures, just as it refers to sewing and more particularly fit.

I will often refer my clients to the plethora of Oriental tailors in my city, but with one caveat - be careful of the fit.  This isn't so much a fault or problem, once you understand the Oriental way of fitting.  It is much closer to the body and with out the ease that the Occidental world is used to.

Enter this lovely lady:

While traveling to the East on Singapore Air, imagine my delight in seeing these lovely ladies in their beautiful uniforms - yes these are their work uniforms. 

The first thing I noticed was the fit - very close to the body with hardly any ease.  This is the standard Oriental way of fitting and although you may think this is very limiting, actually it's not - because it fits the girl, and fits her well.  It's not skin tight, nor is it two sizes too small;  it simply fits.

Understanding that in Asia as well as Europe, ladies first thought upon being invited to a special event is to seek out a tailor or dressmaker.  This is the source for all fine garments - not RTW!  Ready-to-wear is an American phenomenon, and even today, ladies throughout the world, except the US, prefer having their special garments made for them.  With this in mind, the fitting on the lovely ladies of Singapore Air, seems totally logical.

But this dress is not only about fit.  It's about the myriad of details in this lovely ensemble.

Not only is there the mitered corner of the applied border, but look at the darted curve of the neckline.  This shows a ton of work in that the collar must be darted just exactly or the curve radius is too small or too large.  But this is not surprising as these uniforms were designed by Pierre Cardin, so the detail is subtle, only noticeable to the experienced eye.

Having done this exact procedure, I know how tenuous that darting can be.

It's not as evident in this photo, however the applied border here ran around the back of the neckline and the only way for this to work was to curve or dart the straight border piece.  It worked beautifully and my client loved it.

But that's not all - the skirt has its own design goodies

The uniform has to be functional and these gals have to reach up and down and stoop and so must have room to work as well as be beautiful.  Toward that end the front has a slit that is pleated into the slit trim, and gathered which adds not only a great shape to the skirt but allows for her to walk and work easily in the ensemble.

What was just as much fun was all the while crossing the Pacific Ocean (well, not the entire crossing), every time they would pass in the beautifully made garments, I would relish in knowing that I had done something almost similar and know the hard work that goes into each one of these garments.

One more word about beading

Back when I was young and didn't know any better, I thought beading was the cat's meow....it was a very glamorous way to get a lot of bling for very little bucks!

Course this was back when I had all the answers for the universe!  Boy do I love old age - or rather the wisdom that old age brings....but alas, I had to try the beading just to see what it was all about.

 

I had seen this ad by Yves St. Laurent for the introduction of Opiun Perfume and thought the dress was killer delicious.  The design was fabulous.  I read a little more about the dress and apparently it's supposed to be beaded with semi-precious stone. This was in 1979 back  when it was nothing to have an evening gown go for $100,000 to $200,000 for couture.  Of course that was in Paris not in the Southern Plains!

The dress was simple - piece of cake - made that pattern in my sleep.  But I sat down Thursday night about 7 pm to start the beading on this puppy (with sequins, bugle and rocaille beads not semi-precious stones!)

 

I beaded and I beaded and I beaded....

 

....and it got prettier and prettier and prettier.

Finally I finished.

 

It was spectacular.  I loved it.  I wore it that Saturday night.

But, between Thursday evening at 7pm and Saturday afternoon about 5 pm, I got 2 hours sleep.  It took that long to bead the dress.  I didn't have kids, and stopped to fix meals and go to the bathroom.  I made my entrance Saturday night at the ball, and poof wanted to go home and go to sleep.  I promised myself I would never do that again.  I think I had a great time, but I'm not sure cause everything was a little sleepy after that!

I since have a new appreciation for beading, and that's why it's so expensive.  Watching the Chanel "How It's Made" video brought this whole dress back.

But one of these days puffy sleeves will come back, and the dress still fits so I'll put it on again.

So, my little petunias, if you ever think of beading, be prepared for a long haul!!  Thank heavens I'm older and wiser now and I've also discovered Walgreens readers!

Entredeaux

I always knew this as lace insertion, but it's also known as entredeaux. 

While going through my heirloom lace and trim collection (yes, I've collected a lot of stuff like that), I noticed this beautiful piece.

 

It's about 1 1/2" wide and about a yard long, probably what was left over after a project.  But it's so delicate and beautiful, I was just thankful to get it.

But now, what to do with it?....down the outside of a 3/4 sleeve....a collar?....cuffs? (nah.  not that close to the face - I need this to be seen)...on the seams of a yoke? (to the blouse front and back)..hmmm.

So what would you all do with this?