Claire Kennedy Design

SDR (Scuba Doo Rag) Pattern & Layout

Here's the pdf file for the pattern.  Print pattern out on your printer, then match line A to line B to make the total Center Top piece.  There are four pieces:

1. Center Top (this piece will need to be glued together from the pages you print out.
2. Side
3. Front Tie
4. Tie Ends

This shows the layout out of all the pieces.  There should be four pieces, two are cut on fold.  When you cut on fold you cut one piece.  The other pieces that are not on fold, you will cut two pieces.  I would lay out like above, as the "nap" or direction of the fabric is consistent with how the pieces will go together to make the final product.

The large arrow is the "straight" of grain of fabric.  The strength of the fabric is the lengthwise or long strands of the fabric - this is called the warp of the fabric.  (The crosswise threads/weaving is called woof.)

 

The pattern has some "notches" and other markings.  The dart markings on the Center Top piece, notches on the top of the Center Front piece, notches on the end of the Center Front and Tie End pieces.  Mark each as they are important.

The direction of the fabric is important.  You can cut two ways:  Cut with the design of the fabric right side up in front or right side up in back.  I usually choose the former, as I figure most people will be looking at my front not back.  In the design above, the seahorses are facing up from the front.

I mark the end of the dark in the Center Top piece with a pin "in" (top of pin) as the point of the end of the dart.  This needs to be marked on the wrong side of the fabric. 

With a few easy markings and care in cutting, this is an easy pattern to put together.

Assembling SDR (Scuba Doo Rag)

 

Fold over the dart - where you've marked with the pin (circled above) and follow the dart line with a 3/8" seam.

 

Starting at the bottom of the dart, fold the short side up 3/8" and pin to other side, then sew this on the 3/8" seam to the place the pin marked.

 

When you get to almost the end of the dart, decrease the stitch length to very short stitches, and sew right on the fold of the fabric for about 1/2" and do not back tack, this will make the dart end smoothly and without the bulk of back-tacking.

 

If you have a serger, serge the seams, if you don't, you can zigzag the seam edges to finish edges.  Make sure that the stitches on the outside do not catch the fabric.

The seam may not look as finished as a serged edge, but this is just as efficient for preventing unraveling of fabric as a serged edge.

Here are both darts finished - one with serged & other with zig zag.  I will finish the rest of the doo rag with serged edge, but you can zig zag edge if you want.

The rule of thumb for pressing seams and darts is always press toward center front or back, except for side seams which always press back.  These darts press toward center back and press.

The next seam is the trickiest seam - - attaching a curved line to a straight line.  The first thing is to notch or clip the straight seam so it will curve easier.  This will require a little stretching and working of the fabric to make it go in smoothly.

On the Center Top piece notch along the side where you will attach the curved piece.  Notch only 1/4" deep - not to the edge of the seam allowance, but just shy of it.

Pin the seams together making sure all the fabric "eases" into the seam without any gathers or pleats.  You may have to stretch and work with the fabric to make this work.  Sew on 3/8" seam allowance.

 

Sew the Tie Ends to the Front Tie matching the notches on the edges.  Sew on 3/8" seam allowance.

After you press this seam (it's hard to do, but makes for easier top stitching), and remember to press toward center front, then top stitch on the 1/4" from seam allowance.  Most companies have feet that are made to mark the 1/4" seam allowance which makes this a lot easier.

Sew the front band onto the top cap, match the notches in front.  The notches match to the seams on the front cap.  This is a seam that requires a little ease, but not as much as the side to top seam.  Pin this seam first before you sew it.  Press down (toward bottom of cap) and top stitch 1/4" from seam.

Press the remaining outside seams with an 3/8" seam allowance.  Be sure and miter the lower corner (close up picture follows) and on the corners fold the future  line first then the seam you're sewing second....this makes it easier for the machine to sew over.

Mitered corners - these are hallmark of a quality finished project.  You don't have to do these on all corners - anything more than a 90° doesn't really need a mitered corner - anything 90° or less looks really good (and is easier to sew) when mitered. Here's how to do this:

 

First, fold both sides of the corner and press - BTW, press after each step, it's easier (even if I forget to say so!)

Next, unfold the top fold and pull the corner diagonally to the 3/8" seam allowance line.  Fold along the pink line above, and press.

Now fold over that top seam again, and voilá - a very nice mitered corner.  Top stitch 1/4" from the edge and this will create a flat, professional look.

This is the finished doo rag.

Now I know you have lots and lots of questions - please feel free to ask.  I'm sort of using you gals as guinea pigs and expect you to ask away....if something isn't clear, let me know what it is.  The first thing I did wrong was to do this in such a difficult fabric to photograph...and I'm sure there are other things  PLEASE - just ask away.  You can post a comment right here, but I expect questions more than comments!!!