Some Fun Things I Do At Work

February 06, 2008

Formal Clothes - in Color

For a change from my brides and debs, I get to do some colorful things.  Not only is the color welcomed, but the design is too.

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My client and I worked more closely on this design than I usually do.  She is very definite about what she likes and what looks good on her.  After re-working several variations of this design, this is the one we liked the best.  This client has an excellent figure, and wants to show it off.  She felt best in the more architectural feel rather than a fluid feel. 

The fabric here is very interesting.  I had found a gorgeous silk organza fabric with woven metallic design in the organza.  When we put that over a red silk charmeuse, the fabric sang.  For a border/accent, I used a satin-faced black organza that is a little less translucent than the typical organza.  At the seam between the two, I applied two trims, one is the "pewter-ed  gold" and the other a black soutache, which is much shinier than the satin-faced organza or the black/gold organza.

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One of the things that made this fabric so interesting is that I could match it in back.  It's not an exact match, but enough of a match that this "kissing" seam in back worked.  These are one of my favorite details as they do not scream couture or custom made, but you never see ready-to-wear like this unless it's custom or couture!  Check it out next time you purchase something with a print or plaid (something that all dressmakers know must/should be matched), and most ready-to-wear isn't matched.  In addition, notice the back seam of the sleeve - it also matches.  In this particular design, I did do a two-piece sleeve, however the other seam is almost directly underarm, as I knew it wouldn't match.

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Details, details, details.  Design, line, style, cut are all very important, but details can ad that extra touch that makes a custom made ensemble really pop.  My client and I both loved these buttons, and to make this look symmetrical, which was in keeping with the design, I "invented" this loop/Chinese knot type button loop.  It works beautifully - you can't tell which button is the looped button and which is not.

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The final look - what a gorgeous dress for a fabulous event.  It fits her body, but her lifestyle, body style and her personality style.  Not only does this work as an elegant evening suit, she has the option of wearing formal velvet or satin pants with the jacket, a beautiful long black or red skirt with the jacket, black camisole or fabulous black turtleneck sweater with the skirt.  The sweater may tend to be a little more casual, but with the right jewelry, it can really sing - it's that quiet quality look that reeks elegance.

July 11, 2007

Veil

I love my work.  And this doesn't sound like a problem, but here's the deal.  I love to play too - and all work and no play - yada, yada, yada....so I "need" to play - don't we all - but I love to work, you see the dilemma!

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So I'm working on this bridal gown and I'm doing this veil.  This summer has been the summer of heirloom veils which I particularly love.  Love doing something that's been in the family for years and using in the gown or somehow in the wedding dress.  So I'm in an heirloom-ish sort of mood these days. The bride's dress is in Chantilly (that and other gems from this summer soon to be on my gallery page at my site), and this lace is gorgeous.  We had a little supply problem, so got the lace in white and dyed it (another subject for another time). 

This lace is so delicate, that it doesn't take much and the lace can just delicately finish the veil.  Alençon lace can be heavy and another look, but Chantilly is light and delicate, and needs to be designed with that in mind.

So here's the start - This is my work space:
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Yikes - look at that mess off to the right - and I actually use all that junk - rulers, pokers, brushes, pins, my ever faithful exacto knife, awl, nail file (hate working with silk and having my nails rough)...just general junk that I need and can't live without.

I digress....so anyway back to the veil...I've applied the lace:
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And starting cutting - yes this takes guts, but fortunately I can feel underneath if I'm catching the tulle, and the purpose here is to trim out the excess, cause all I want is a very tiny trim on the edge.  After I finish this trim, then I have to trim the scallop edge so that the scallop shows up better.

Tools - How many times have I seen beginners start with poor tools and then give up thinking that's it's their ability - it's usually not.  It's the tool.  These are Gingher scissors - to my mind the best.  (Note to self - do blog on tools!)
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These scissors make this trimming so much easier and they are very sharp.  My other fav (besides my regular shears), are the knife-edge Ginghers....they are marvelous...but not to digress.

Finished - see how delicate this is?
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Just what I wanted....

Will post pictures of bride, gown, veil and all after the wedding.

One of my rules is that I don't show or display dress till after client has worn the dress.  I've heard numerous stories of customers going into dress shops and being shown everything that has been sold but not worn yet.  The customers have walked out horrified, and in this small town (even though it's a city) that sort of thing gets out.